Canvas prints don’t have to be stretched for professional-looking artwork. A technique you may not have considered is mounting your canvas. Here are some instructions on how to mount canvas prints and how to frame a canvas print.
When printmakers think about canvas, they tend to think about stretching. Framing canvas prints depends on the process of stretching to ensure the canvas is properly secured to the frame. This helps to avoid cracking, warping, and more as time goes on.
This traditional process requires one of two paradigms. Either the printmaker pays someone to stretch the canvas for them, or they can undergo training to learn how to stretch.
It is possible, however, to produce canvas prints that can be turned into beautiful, framed prints without stretching. But remember, canvas doesn’t have the same needs as a paper print. This means it can be displayed without any glazing (glass) for an exciting, unique look:
This process is done with a wet mount of a coated canvas to a substrate such as gator board. In the photograph above, you can see a 28″ x 28″ canvas print that was mounted to gator and has been framed.
What is Gator board and why not just use foam core?
Mounting canvas prints is as much about the materials as it is about the technique. Keep this in mind as we progress through the series. But to start, let’s dive into why your board selection is as critical to this process.
Framing canvas prints is all about the durability of the materials at hand. After all, once a piece of canvas is stretched and framed, it’s not often, if ever, removed from the frame or bar. This process assumes a long-term solution, and the materials need to be up to the job.
Gator board has a much more durable surface than foam core or other alternatives. Moreover, it can take a wet mount without damage. By design, gator is very stiff and comes in various thicknesses. I choose to work with 3/16″ and 1/2″ for my work.
Gator will not deform over time, which is an enormous boon. Moreover, it will resist bending. Due to the stiff nature of the product, it will not show any rippling when the canvas is mounted.
Foam core is not a great solution. This is because it is much softer by design and will easily allow a pressure dimple or other type of damage to the print. Foam core also will not work well with a wet mounting solution, as it will tend to separate and warp if it gets moist. Most foam core doesn’t have a perfectly even surface and thus will not allow a print to mount well.
Remember, this is a one-time process for mounting canvas prints. If you had to mount and re-mount your work over and over again, you’d lose your mind. So, whenever possible, use the best quality and most durable materials you can. This will save you the headache in the long run.
Getting Started on Mounting Your Canvas Prints
For this type of mount, you need to make sure you have coated your canvas, as the application involves a wet mounting process. This is a critical step.
If you are using Crystalline or any “glossy” canvas that is aqueous-based, tread carefully. You can’t allow any water to get on the face of the canvas. If this happens, the ink will more than likely wipe off as you clean the print.
For my work, I use Breathing Color’s 800M matte canvas and Crystalline. Before I mount, I coat the canvas with Breathing Color’s Timeless glossy coating.
This will protect the print during the mounting process and add years of protection to the print.
Trimming the Canvas
Once I have the canvas coated, I will trim it to the final size for mounting. I prefer to leave a 1/2-inch border on the canvas to allow easy handling during the mounting. So, I quickly make a set of tick marks around the print and trim it down to size.
For example, on a 20 x 30 canvas, I will have a canvas that is 21″ x 31″ and I make the Gator board the same size. This means you do have a bit of extra waste. But to me, the extra is worth it. This is because the 1/2 border means I have some room to handle the print without getting my fingers on the face of the print.
If you’ve followed the process carefully, you should have an even canvas that is ready for glue. With the canvas trimmed, you are now ready to prepare the gator board.
Preparing the Board with Glue
Gator comes in white or black. I use black, but either is fine. I chose black simply because I use white glue. As you can imagine, it’s much easier to see the board with glue on it to make sure you have 100% coverage.
For our 20″ x 30″ print, which is still 21″ x 31″, I have cut a 3/16-inch piece of gator to the same size of 21″ x 31″. I will always wipe off the gator with a damp rag. This helps to set the glue to the board and remove any small particles that may be sitting on top of the gator.
Next, I will lay out the glue. I use a brand called Miracle Muck. This is a fast-setting water based glue that has excellent adhesion properties.
For this process, I start with 2 large spots of glue towards the center of the gator. Don’t worry about evenness, as the next step involves smoothing it out.
With a soft burnishing brush, I will then start to lay out the glue evenly across the gator. While doing this, you want to evenly distribute the glue across the face of the gator board. I tend to make a series of passes, going up and down and then across the face of the gator board.
I use a standard 4-inch print maker’s roller to lay out the glue. This roller has a soft gum rubber finish, not a hard one. I prefer the 4-inch roller for all sizes of gator board as I feel I get better control over the distribution of the glue. When you are finished rolling, make sure you take the roller to the sink and wash off the glue, as it will start to set quickly.
Picking the Right Tools
There’s an old adage that an artist is only as good as his tools. Truly, the same is applicable for the artist’s process of mounting canvas prints.
Before we go to the mounting of the canvas, let me briefly talk about the tools I use. In this image you can see a close up of the two rollers I use and the soft tack/lint free rag.
Tool 1 – Soft Roller
The soft roller, made from black gum rubber, is found in most art supply stores. It’s called a burnishing brush and is most commonly used in lithography and printmaking.
I have found it to be indispensable for the process of rolling out the glue. You can pick these up in various widths, but I prefer the 4-inch size for all my work. Over time the material of the roller will harden and crack, so expect to replace this roller in a year or so.
Tool 2 – Hard Roller
This item is a hard roller and I use this once the print has been placed on the glue prepared gator board surface. This roller is around 8 inches wide and applies a nice even pressure to the face of the canvas. This helps to make sure all the air bubbles have been removed.
The key to this type of roller is the metal frame. Make sure you get one with a stiff frame that won’t bend, or the roller will bind up under pressure.
Tool 3 – A Clean Rag
The last item is a lint free soft rag, most commonly found in an auto parts store. In the process of mounting canvas prints I will use this rag many times. To help lay down the canvas and then clean up any excess glue that might have slipped up to the face of the canvas. You want to use this rag damp, as a dry rag may lightly scratch the face of your canvas.
Mounting the Canvas
Now that we’ve covered the setup, you’re ready for where the rubber meets the road. We can now dive into how to mount a canvas print properly.
As soon as you have the gator board covered with glue, you want to start the mounting process. This is the most critical part, so take some practice runs on smaller prints. Before you try to mount an image larger than 16″x 20″, you can work the kinks out, so to speak.
The glue I use works for about 5 minutes. After that, if you don’t have the print down flush, you will need to pull the print off and re-lay down your glue. So be careful and thorough, but quick!
Remember back when I first trimmed the print, I left a 1/2-inch border. This allows you a bit of room for error. But more importantly, you can pick up the print without worrying about getting your glue print on the face.
Now that we’re prepped and have the right tools, we’re ready to mount the canvas.
Step 1.
Take the print and roll it up so the side to be mounted is outside. Then line one of the edges of the canvas to the gator board edge. It’s much easier to work with the print rolled up than trying to lay it down in one large step.
Step 2.
With your damp rag on the face of the print, unroll the print and apply some light pressure to it. NOTE: If you are using a glossy canvas, you must coat it first!
With one hand control the roll of the print and with the other smooth out the print over the gator board.
Step 3.
Once you have the print all the way rolled out, take your hard burnishing roller and start at one end of the print and roll across the face of the print. Apply a considerable amount of pressure during this step, as you will not hurt either the print or the gator.
Again, it will take time to get the hang of it. But this step is very critical as you don’t want any air left under the canvas. Once you have finished, take you damp rag and wipe over the face of the print just to feel for any bumps. This is more important on a large print of 24″ x 36″ or larger.
Step 4.
Once you feel the print is down evenly, pick up the gator board and hold the mounted print in the light at an angle. Look for any bumps or problems on the face, as now is the time to get them out. If you see some trapped air, just get your damp rag and work it out. If you see a piece of trash, you will need to pull the print back, remove the debris, and then re-burnish.
If you do this within the first 5 to 6 minutes, the glue will still set, but if you wait any longer, you may need to re-apply some glue on the board. Also, look to see that you don’t get any glue on the print or have wiped a bit of washed-down glue over the face of the print. This is easy to get off now but next to impossible once allowed to dry.
Step 5.
When you are done, your print should look like this. You may see that the gator board has bowed up due to the moisture, but don’t worry; during the drying process, this will all come out. Plus, since the mounted print is going in a frame, imperfections are no cause for alarm. If you see a bit of bowing still after drying, do not worry; the frame itself will even the print out.
Do a quick check on the back of the print to make sure there are no globs of glue there. This is just a nice way to finish the piece on both the front and back. A clean façade is going to make for a considerably more professional-looking piece, after all.
If the print is a 20 x 30 or larger, I like to place some weight on the face of the print while it dries, just to help keep the bowing to a minimum. Uniformity at this stage is key.
I like to let the prints dry overnight, but if you are in a rush, you should be able to trim the piece after about 6 hours. Just take you finger and pull back on the edge and see if there is any play with the canvas. It should totally resist any attempt to pull it back if the glue has dried.
Trimming the Finished Board
Now, all that is left is the trimming, and this can also be a bit tricky. Gator board is much stiffer than foam core, and even 3/16 inch will require several cuts. What I like to do is line up a ruler on the white border, and use a fresh blade in an Olfa hand cutter to make my cuts.
These cutters have a segmented single blade and you can easily break off the dull tip and keep on cutting. You don’t want to use a blade on too many cuts as gator board will dull a blade quickly. The process I like to use is as follows:
Step 1.
Line up the straight edge along the white border and make your cut all in one even pull. The first couple of passes will cut the canvas and start to break into the gator board.
I always make sure to cut into a cutting mat. These are designed to absorb the point of the blade and help you control the cut. You can see the green cutting mat in the picture.
Step 2.
After you have made the cut down into the gator board, the magic begins. You will start to see the smooth way the gator board has cut away and given you a clean edge. If I am working on prints that I know are going into frames, I will go ahead and snap the gator board after 2 cuts. You can see in this picture that I am pulling the cut gator board away, which shows the clean cut.
Step 3.
On a larger print, you may want to tape down the ruler, as it’s easy to have the ruler move just a bit as you move down the print. On 20″ x 30″ prints or larger, I always do this. There is nothing worse than getting all this work done up to this point to have an errant blade cut into the print and ruin it.
Take your time on this part. Also, be aware that the edges of the cut Gator board are very sharp. Running your hand over them can cause a cut pretty quickly. So take care here and wear protective clothing when possible.
The finished, mounted print is now ready to put into a frame. I will often blacken the upper edge of the print as you can see the white line of the canvas against the black of the gator.
This is a great way to get into canvas printing, and not have to focus on stretching. The finished product in a black frame is shown below.
With all of the steps above followed to the letter, the process is done! And you should have a beautiful canvas-mounted print that is as stately as it is sturdy.
Just remember, mounting prints on canvas doesn’t need to be a pro-only game. By practicing the steps and using the proper high-quality tools, you can mount and hang like a pro. And you will likely find the process becomes easier with each print.
Have a question about mounting canvas prints that I didn’t answer here? Leave it in the comments below and I’ll respond in kind.
For more information about Paul, and to check out some of his awesome photography visit photosofarkansas.com.
Paul Caldwell has been working in the photographic arts since he was 15 and has been a professional photographer for the last 10 years. As you would imagine, Paul has a wealth of knowledge when it comes to photography and printmaking. He sells some great looking prints on his website and offers one-on-one classes covering everything from capture to print.
Frequently Asked Questions
Do you have more questions about mounting prints on canvas? Well, our guide doesn’t need to stop here. These are the most common questions folks ask when they want to push their canvas mounting even further:
How do you mount a canvas print?
You may be surprised to learn how to mount a canvas print is a fairly flexible endeavor.
You can mount a canvas print without stretching it. There are two techniques: wet mounting and dry mounting.
Wet mounting means using a liquid adhesive to adhere the canvas to a rigid substrate. Dry mounting involves using a film laminate to stick the canvas to the rigid surface.
When working with canvas specifically, it is best practice to use the wet mount method. If you are mounting a smoother media, such as photo paper, then dry mounting is common and often easier.
But in truth, one process is no better or worse than the other. They merely come with their own distinct pros and cons.
With the wet mount process, you basically mount the canvas to Gatorboard to give the finished piece its rigidity. Of course, you could also mount it to MDF, Masonite, or some other rigid substrate. Gatorboard is dense, durable, and relatively lightweight. This allows for a simple, damage-free workflow as well as safe transport or shipping to the client.
How do you hang a stretched canvas?
One of the best things about stretching canvas prints is you get a piece of wall art that is relatively simple to hang. With the right knowhow, you can hang canvas art without complicated setups or major wall damage.
The easiest way to hang a stretched canvas without framing is a simple nail. Please note that often one nail will not suffice. Using two nails instead is a better idea. One for each corner for ultimate support.
Use a ruler, a level, two 2 inch nails, and a pencil for this DIY project. Place the painting in the final position you would like it in. Use a level to mark the top two edges of the print.
Next, you want to balance it with the level. This will ensure the frame is uniform when hung. Then measure 1 inch down from your markings and make two additional marks.
Make sure to use the level between the two sides of the frame. The lower marks are for the nails. Hammer the nails leaving about half an inch (1/2″) protruding. For the final step, rest the canvas on the nails.
Voila, you’re done, and you now have a beautiful piece of fine art on your wall.
If you prefer a truly foolproof method for hanging your canvas mounted print, we might recommend sawtooth hangers. These need to be installed into the backside of the frame itself, which requires an extra step. But they offer an unbeatable means of ensuring a level hang every time.
Can I frame a canvas print?
Short answer, yes you can frame a canvas print. However, framing comes with its own considerations.
A common reason to frame a print is because of unsightly sides of the canvas wrap. There are different ways to wrap your canvas. Methods include gallery wrap, museum wrap, and standard wrap. Gallery and museum wraps are ones that you would have no problem hanging as is.
The standard wrap is one that people would frame to hide the sides. It is not uncommon for a standard wrap to be stapled on the side of the wooden stretcher bar instead of the backside. This is all personal preference, of course. But this is our experience from talking to both print makers and people who purchase printed art and photography.
Keep in mind, however, that when you choose a frame, ensure you’ve chosen one that works with your canvas size. There is nothing worse than having your frame obscure elements of your piece simply because the sizes don’t match.
How to frame a rolled canvas print
Now that you’ve decided on framing, let’s discuss how to frame a canvas print.
We recommend that you take one of two common paths when deciding how to frame a rolled canvas print:
- stretch a rolled canvas yourself using a DIY system like Breathing Color’s EasyWrappe, or,
- have your rolled-up canvas print stretched for you.
Regardless of the method you choose, ensure that you’ve done your homework first. Once framed, it can be both expensive and cumbersome to reframe your work.
For a good insights resource, you can use your local print shop or frame shop. Do a Google search and then call around. You may be surprised at how many local art and craft businesses can help you with stretching and mounting canvas prints.
You can frame your canvas several ways offered in the market. You can have the canvas stretched and then put into a canvas floater frame. Or frame it, as you would any other print, using a wood, metal, or even acrylic frame.
Like we said, how to frame a rolled canvas print is surprisingly amenable. It’s all about the materials used and the steps taken. But when in doubt, consult your local frame resource.
How much does it cost to frame a canvas print?
There are several factors for pricing out a canvas frame. It can range from $8-$20 per linear foot. This comes out to around $50 to $150 per print, with average sizes factored in.
However, the total cost can be a lot more depending mainly on the size of your print, stretcher bar thickness, and frame thickness. Even elements such as the type of your wooden frames can affect the overall price. It is best to call around for quotes so you can anticipate the cost of framing your custom canvas prints.
Because the frame adds an aesthetic touch to the fine art itself, it’s a critical decision. We recommend selecting quality over cost savings here. Choose a frame that speaks to and enhances the art, not one that will dimmish its impact.
Where can I find high quality canvas mounting medium?
When you are ready to begin mounting or stretching your canvas artwork, the medium you select is everything. Breathing Color offers an enormous selection of matte, varnish, and solvent canvas. Browse their full collection to discover professional grade medium for your work.
Are there more insights to share?
If there’s a topic we haven’t covered here, leave a comment in the comments section. We don’t want to leave anyone in the lurch when framing or mounting canvas prints, after all.
